Took a trip to Advance Auto Parts looking for the stop light switch, hazard flasher, and horn unit. The attendant was able to find a "Sorensen SLS62 Switch Stoplight" right away but struggled to find the hazard flasher. Quite by accident he came up with a "Sorensen HR84 Realy RELE RELAIS" that looked exactly like the old one. I selected a universal horn made by FIAMM model number "B 72012" with a "low note". Got out of there for $20.31.
Got home and plugged in the hazard flasher. Lights did not flash. Decided not to worry about it and hooked up the horn instead. Followed the directions then tried the horn. Low and behold it worked. Only thing, it worked too well and tended to stick on. I disassembled the horn button on the steering wheel that I had worked on before and turned one flat plate around and put everything back together. Tried the horn and it worked much better. Perfectly in fact. OK, so item #9 fixed.
Started working on the stop light switch. Installation was obvious and just required some trial and error to get it adjusted right and pretty soon the stop lights are working. Item #3 fixed.
Went back to the hazard flasher unit. Unplugged it and manually shorted out the terminals on the connector. The horn goes off. Now I think I have totally screwed up wiring until the light bulb goes off (no pun intended) and I realize that what I thought was the hazard flasher is really the horn relay. No wonder the guy at the auto parts store had trouble finding a hazard flasher. It really was the horn relay. Somewhat of a sense of relief and also a sense of how am I going to figure out the hazard flasher system.
So, I crawl back under the dash and start looking around. I don't see anything that looks like the horn relay or the turn signal flasher. The Chilton's manual, good as it is, doesn't provide any clues to what I'm looking for. I really need a stock Jeep with a functional hazard system to look at. Where am I going to get that ?
Items purchased at Advance Auto Parts from the sales receipt
item description ---- ----------- 5972914 Switch Stoplight SLS62 5972280 Relay HR84 6200007 Universal Low Tone Horn 72012
Got a JC Whitney catalog in the mail. Looked at bucket seats and a bench seat. JC sells "Bestop" brand which is what I've been looking at on the web. A viynl fixed high-back bucket seat in tan color goes for $129.95. A fixed bench seat goes for $159.95. They have a 15% discount on orders over $200 and ground shipping is $14.99. Looks like I can replace all of the seats for $371.86. I wonder how that compares to the cost of recovering the seats. There is an outfit near where I live that does that. I think I'll get an estimate from them for comparision.
Worked some more on item #5. No voltage noted at the fan motor connector. Fan motor would not run when 12 volts is directly supplied to the motor terminals. Very low voltage (half a volt) noted at the fan switch connector. This one looks difficult. May have multiple problems. Put it aside for now.
Take a close look at the fuse block under the dash. Looking for any connector that looks like it would accept a flasher. Sure enough, high up on the block is a likely looking place. Plug in the turn signal flasher and bam, the hazard flashers are working. Now for a trip to Advance Auto Parts. Purchased two "552" flashers. $2.38 each. Got out of there for $5.15.
item description ---- ----------- 5080320 Flasher (K) 552
Item #4 is fixed.
Plugged in the clock connector. The second hand doesn't move at all. I think that it is dead. Unplugged the connector. Put item #6 aside for now.
Really dug into item #5, the fan motor that doesn't work. Pulled apart the fuse block under the dash and on the firewall. Noticed the problem right away. The brown wire that provides 12 volt power had pulled away from the spade lug on the back of the fuse block. The connector on the wire and the spade lug itself looked pretty corroded so I spliced in a separate in-line fuse holder using wire nuts. Once again, not pretty but functional. Also, noticed that the red with black stripe wire that was spliced out before was nothing but bare wire behind the fuse block under the dash. It was just waiting to touch something and make smoke and maybe fire. So, I spliced in more wire right where the wire connects to the lug on the fuse block. Now at least it can't short anything. By the way, the wire is connected to one of the lugs that the hazard flasher relay plugs into. Now I know what the wire is for.
Bottom line: item #5 is fixed.
Item 1 - Fixed Item 2 - Fixed Item 3 - Fixed Item 4 - Fixed Item 5 - Fixed Item 6 - On back burner (On hold 1/1/04) Item 7 - Needs more debug (Complete 1/1/04) Item 8 - Need part (Complete 7/15/03) Item 9 - Fixed Item 10 - Fixed
Replaced the type 53 bulb for the left turn signal indicator in the instrument cluster. It now flashes to indicate left turn signal on.
Extensively tested fuel and temperature gauges in the instrument cluster. All wires hooked up. Appropriate voltages present. Three ohm reistor measured properly. Path to ground through fuel and temperature sensors confirmed. Gauges do not appear to work. Haven't run the engine long enough for it to heat up. Don't know exactly how much gas is in the tank. Going to wait until the vehicle is on the road so that I can drive it to the gas station and fill the tank and warm up the engine.
Mounted choke control to the bottom of the dash panel. Shortened the control wire to fit. Found some small screws to hold the choke plate onto the carburetor. Choke control now manipulates the choke plate. Now have an interference between the choke control rod clamp and the air cleaner housing. I think I can come up with a rubber gasket to raise the housing enought to clear.
Removed the winshield washer solvent tank to check the pump underneath. Cleaned it up and tested it and the motor runs. Tested the washer control on the dash and it operates the motor. Need to construct a ground wire for the motor and put the tank back in place, fill it and test it.
Ordered two tan Bestop high-back bucket seats from JC Whitney ($240.90) Ordered a rear view mirror and mounting kit from Tellico 4X4 ($24.90) The kid on the phone said that he was in Alabama.
Unbolted and removed the roll bar. Found some pretty bad rust-through behind the lower mounting plates behind the seats. Now I've got a problem. Perhaps I'll buy that welder that I've been thinking about.
Found a small diameter bolt and nut and put a fork terminal on the ground wire of the windshield washer solvent tank. Bolted on the ground wire and the pump works fine. Reinstalled the tank and filled it with fluid. Works great.
Ordered a tan Bestop back bench seat and tan bikini top from JC Whitney, $194.16 total.
Put insurance on the Jeep and obtained the registration and plates.
Bought some sticky back 220 grid sanding disks for the DA sander. Sanded the roll bar in preparation for paint. Spray painted the roll bar with White lacquer paint (spray can).
Ordered a gallon of White Durabak to coat the tub.
The seats arrived. Bought more white paint for the roll bar.
Finished painting the roll bar. No runs, no drips, no errors. Big improvement.
Installed the driver's side seat onto the old seat rails and brackets. The seat is a little wider than the old one so just barely fits in the fully forward position. Not possible to move the seat to adjust it.
Put on the plates and took it for a drive. Really stiff ride. Bumps in the road throw it around pretty good. The steering is really loose. It tends to wander around. Filled the gas tank (about 12 gallons). Gas gauge indicator didn't move nor the temperature gauge. Steering wheel at about the two o'clock position going down the road straight. Not alot of power in the engine. In high gear at low speeds, stepping on the gas made a knocking sound in the engine (some type of detonation). Got it up to about 45 MPH. First impressions: 1) the bumpy ride and loose steering took some of the fun out of driving it.
Rear view mirror and bikini top arrived. Installed rear view mirror, and so item #8 is fixed. I think that I am ready for state inspection. The "loose" steering has me spooked a little, but I'm going to try it anyway.
Page 1 Page 3 Page 4 Page 5 Page 6 Page 7